Hyperpigmentation vs. Hypopigmentation

Hyperpigmentation or Hypopigmentation?

What gives freckles their color? An overabundance of melanin; the same pigment that’s responsible for skin conditions which show up as irregularly dark or light skin. Across all races and natural skin colors, too much or too little melanin will result in skin that appears unusually dark or light, known respectively as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation.

In most cases, there are treatments available for skin with irregularly dark or light patches. The following overview of these two opposite yet related issues will help you determine which one you might have, and how to treat it.

Hyperpigmentation

Irregularly dark patches on the skin are known as hyperpigmentation; an overabundance of melanin. This is an extremely common skin condition for men and women of all races and ages. It’s causes when the cells responsible for producing melanin are either overactive or overabundant.

UV Exposure

Commonly occurring agespots, also known as liver spots, are dark spots often occurring on the face of light-skinned individuals. They are a result of exposure to UV rays, and worsen over time with more UV exposure rather than as a direct result of aging.

Skin Injury

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or “PIH” often results from acne, burns, or psoriasis, and is generally easily treated.

Hormones

Birth control pills, hormone replacements, thyroid imbalance, and pregnancy can all trigger hyperpigmentation in the form of a condition known as melasma.

While there is no medical threat to hyperpigmentation, the appearance of these darker patches can be a nagging aesthetic concern for some. Luckily, there are many treatments available that can help to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Here are a few we suggest:

Arbutin Brightening Duo Kit

No matter the cause of your hyperpigmentation, the daily serum and moisturizer in this kit can help to correct it. They are each safe and effective treatments including Lemon Balm, Peppermint, and other ingredients with the natural power to fighthyperpigmentation. Their skin lightening ingredients work by inhibiting the enzyme that produces melanin in your skin. Perfect for those seeking a more natural approach to the harsh alternative of skin bleaching.

Jessner 14% Peel Kit – Medium Strength

Treat hyperpigmentation with this remarkable medium strength peel, including Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid and Resorcinol to reveal a new, revitalized layer of your skin. Prepare with a daily exfoliator, and expect a downtime of two to three weeks.

TCA 30% Peel Kit – Deep Strength

If you’re looking for a more intensive treatment for advanced hyperpigmentation, this kit can help to correct stubborn dark patches, as well as deep wrinkles, sagging skin, and crow’s feet. TCA is a great option for resurfacing and renewing your skin.

If you are new to peels, start with a lower percentage TCA peel. Expect two weeks of downtime and up to two months of full recovery after this treatment. Protect your skin afterward with an SPF of 30 or higher.

Hypopigmentation

Hypopigmentation, also knows as skin depigmentation, is the medical term for abnormally light skin. This means your skin has less than the normal amount of melanin, which is the pigment that gives your skin its color. Causes of this condition include:

Skin Disorders

Albinism is a rare disorder resulting in a complete lack of pigmentation in the skin, and also in the eyes and hair. This occurs when the enzyme needed to produce melanin is missing. If you carry this trait, you have a higher risk of sun damage and skin cancer, so be sure to take extra precautions to limit your sun exposure and wear sunscreen daily.

Another such disorder is Vitiligo, an autoimmune disorder involving damage to the cells which produce pigment, results in smooth white patches, sometimes over the whole body. Ultraviolet light treatments, corticosteroid creams, and makeup are the common methods used to treat Vitiligo.

Skin Damage

Sometimes trauma experienced by the skin results in a loss of pigmentation. This can include burns, blisters, or skin infection. In many cases, your body will naturally re-pigment the affected areas over time. Cosmetics can ease the transition period of your pigment’s regeneration.

How to Identify Your Skin Type and Tone

When the sun comes out to play at the beginning of spring, you will notice the way your skin reacts. Do you tend to get sunburns easily, or just tan? It’s helpful to find out your skin’s exact tone to find out just how much sun you can soak up before you put yourself at risk for sun damage.

It’s also important to identify your skin type- whether it’s oily, dry, combination, or somewhere in-between- in order to understand which skincare products and procedures are safe for you. It also provides a great reference for picking out the best products to ensure your skin looks and feels its healthiest.

What is Your Skin Tone?

Dermatologists use the Fitzpatrick scale to identify skin tones. The scale was created in 1975 by Harvard dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick, who found a direct correlation between a person’s skin color and how the skin responds to UV light. Which of the following best describes the way your skin typically reacts to the sun?

Type I  Always burns, never tans

Type II  Usually burns, then tans

Type III  Sometimes burn, tans well

Type IV  Rarely burns, tans well

Type V  Rarely burns, tans well, brown skin

Type VI  Very rarely burns, tans very well, very dark

What Determines Your Skin Tone?

It all comes down to pigments. Pigments are responsible for all of the different skin colors in the world. One of those pigments; melanin, is like a natural sunblock, protecting you from damaging UV rays. The more melanin your skin contains, the darker your natural skin color will be. This means that those with naturally darker skin are less prone to burns, whereas fair-skinned people tend to burn easily.

Choosing the Right Products for Your Skin Tone

If you fall on the lighter end of the scale, from Type I – Type III, you can safely use Jessner peels, and the entire range of other peels, including TCA peels up to 30% concentration.

If you have very dark skin, some products may permanently change your skin’s pigment. If your skin tone is darker, Type IV, V, or VI, and are considering a TCA peel, make sure to pick one that has a concentration of 10% or lower. Avoid Jessner peels if you fall into these darker skin tone categories. Glycolic peels are a great, safe option for darker skin tones as are AHA Vitamin C peels. 

Learn more about peels here.

What is Your Skin Type?

Once you have identified your skin tone, you should also consider your skin type. Choose products specifically designed for your skin type in order to meet your skin’s unique set of needs from the following:

Normal Smooth and supple, doesn’t produce excess oil or become dry and flaky. You’re lucky if you fall into this category, and can safely choose from a variety of products.

Oily You tend to have larger pores and can be prone to acne. Acne-prone skin can occur well into adulthood and should be treated with products that remove the dead skin from clogged pores to clear blackheads and acne marks.

Dry Your pores tend to be smaller, with visible dry flakes. Moisturizer is important, so pick one tailored to the amount of moisture your skin needs based on its level of dehydration.

Combination The most common skin type. If you have combination skin, your face will typically be normal or dry with an oily area in your T-zone. You may need to treat these separate areas of your face with different products.

Sensitive Sensitive skin which is easily irritated by products designed for normal skin, and becomes red or itchy. Stick to milder treatments specifically designed for you.

Aging Advanced signs of aging include wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, and sun damage. These visible issues can be minimized through a variety of treatments.

Want a personalized skincare routine for you? Take our quiz! 

Containing Cold Sores When Performing Chemical Peels

Cold sores can occur when there is any type of disturbance to the skin, even when performing a chemical peel. Before performing any type of chemical peel on yourself, it is important that you visit a dermatologist to make sure you are fit to perform any type of peel or speak to a licensed esthetician. Speak to a professional and explain to them that you have had breakouts of cold sores in the past. In order to prevent the cold sores from inflammation, it may behoove the individual to start medication to prevent or even diminish the possibility of reactivation of the cold sores.


Approximately 90% of people are infected or have been infected by some form of the Herpes Virus. Chemical peels and microdermabrasion all stimulate the skin and can reactivate the virus that usually live in the sensory nerves.


The chemical peels stimulate the nerves and decrease the barriers allowing the virus to start and the cold sores to form. If the peel is more superficial, doctors will prescribe different medications to combat the cold sores. Superficial peels can include Glycolic Acid, TCA peels and Jessner Peels. 


Chemical peels are extremely safe when you have cold sores, however the key to containing them is preventing them from the beginning!

TCA Peels 101

TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) is an effective chemical agent used to exfoliate and renew the skin on a more superficial level. TCA is most frequently applied to the face, neck, chest, and hands. In addition, TCA is also an excellent “spot treatment” and can be used to exclusively peel isolated areas of the skin.

 The range of depth that the TCA peel achieves varies according to concentration potency(available strengths range from 10% -30%), application methods: time and pressure, and of course skin type. When applied, the solution penetrates deep into the skin continually seeking protein to neutralize itself.

Unlike the progressive peels such as Glycolic or Salicylic, TCA Peels exfoliate the skin more rapidly upon initial contact. The long-lasting results make it an ideal peel for those who prefer less peeling sessions at the cost of moderate downtime.

TCA’s ability to treat a wide range of skin conditions makes it the perfect chemical peel for individuals with multiple concerns.

Skin types/conditions treated by TCA Peels:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Hyperpigmentation
• Stretch marks
• Acne
• Uneven skin tone

  TCA Peels 10%-30%

• TCA 10% Light Peel- looking to make minor improvements to your skin
  
• TCA 20% Medium Strength Peel- Fine lines, wrinkles, uneven and blotchy complexion
  
• TCA 30% Deep Strength Peel- removes “permanent” skin fixtures such as unwanted freckles, birthmarks, and tattoos.
  

Like all TCA peels, it is best suited for experienced users who have tolerated acids in the past.

Keep in mind:
Darker skin types (particularly African American) should proceed with caution due to an increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

If you have any further questions please leave a comment and we will provide the best answer possible.