Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Chemical Peels - How to compare apples to apples.


So, you want to do a chemical peel? Or maybe you are considering your options for a facial tune up, but aren't sure where to begin. Our society is becoming increasingly more conscious of how others see us and let's face it, no one wants to look old or see that first wrinkle appear on their face. There is no shame in wanting to "freshen things up" and a chemical peel is a great way to do that.  

There's a wide array of chemical peels available out there, so the trick is knowing how a chemical peel is graded or categorized in order to select which is right for you. Professionally applied treatments range from spa quality peels all the way up to clinical peels applied under anesthesia.  That's a very broad gap and there are even some professionals that don't know all the different nuances.  

Peels are categorized into spa or medical quality by the ingredient(s), amount of acid (%), pH level, and amount of buffering in the solution.   

Spa quality is generally a peel that has a pH of 3 or above. The amount of buffering is higher so that the acid is "released" more slowly on the skin. Most spa quality peels are composed of glycolic, lactic, salicylic or a combination of these acids and usually range from 10-30% acid content. Enzyme peels are also in the spa category because there is a limit to how much skin they can cause to shed.

Medical peels are generally at a pH of 2 or lower, contain limited buffering and can range all the way up to 70% acid.  They do not necessarily need to be applied by a doctor, but there is usually one associated with the facility in case of an emergency.  Nurse practitioners, physician assistants and medical estheticians are usually the clinicians applying these peels. Some "designer" peels that contain pharmaceutically controlled ingredients (Retin A for example) can only be used in a medical facility. 

The best way to know exactly what is best for you is to ask questions and do your research. If you want a deep peel and are you open for a higher risk factor, try a medical grade peel.  If you want to take it slow and easy, a spa peel may be for you. Don't be afraid to take your time and make the best choice.

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